SEE BELOW FOR  "Care of Fine Yarn"

A place of learning
Sweetlette Shawl Finishing Instructions
Click here to see what to do with the ribbon and clasp included in your Sweetlette KAL kit.  What do to if you put your clasp on the wrong side, click here.

Part 1 Figure 8 cast on, click here.
Part 2 Toe increases and Short Row Heel first half, click here.
Part 3 Second part of Short Row Heel and last row of chart finishing the heel, click here.
Industry Standard Sock Chart

Two at a Time Sleeves and Gloves
Part 1 Cast On click here
Part 2 Increasing for Sleeves click here at the very end you can see the difference between "Row" and "Round for Creature Feature Gloves.

Creature Feature What's a blip? click here.

THE BAT special edging instructions.  Follow the charts along with this video.

Beaded Picot Cast On - used in several of my patterns both in books as well as self published including my Beaded Smoke Ring which you can find on Ravelry.  It will be seen in the new What Would Madame DeFarge Knit 2 coming out here shortly for the pattern Miss Jane Bennet's Ball Gloves.  Also appearing in my color work book in the works.


Beaded Picot Bind Off - used in several of my patterns both in books as well as self published including my Beaded Smoke Ring which you can find on Ravelry.  It will be seen in the new What Would Madame DeFarge Knit 2 coming out here shortly for the pattern Miss Jane Bennet's Ball Gloves.
At 2:08 on this video I speak of slipping the picot, the stitch you pick up to do this is the left leg of the last b/o st and the left leg of the st directly below picot.

THE RAVEN SHAWL Special Stitch which appears for the first time over rows 17, 18 and 19.
Special Stitch

How to Bind Off Loosely

 There's also "crocking" which is just like what happens from a new pair of denim jeans.  They will run indigo, which can get onto your body as well. From yarn it will get onto your hands while your knitting.  So what do we do about all of this? Rather then rinsing all the colors out of your item follow these simple instructions and save your color, your yarn and your sanity. 
  • Always use made for wool soap only, Synthrapol being the best when working with this type of situations. It can be found at Dharma Trading and several other places.
  • Remove excess water-if item is superwash you can wring it out.  Use a salad spinner for non-superwash (do not use spinner again for food).
  • Get a vessel, pot for stove top or any microwave safe item with lip to contain vinegar.
  • Pour white vinegar over item to saturate and even more, leaving some at the bottom of the pot, add a small amount of water if using a pot. 
  • Heat to hot, not boiling in a pot on the stove or microwave (beware of beads). 
  • Allow to cool completely, overnight is best. 
  • Rinse and repeat as many times as needed. 

For the Mario KAL there is a special Drip stitch which is in the bind off as a D.   This is where the Fluted Round and the Heart beads from your kit are used.  The instructions are in the pattern and here is the video for how to place the beads and get back up to the top.  This can be used on any shawl.  This video is very precise to how to place the beads, there are only 4 beads.  

The below video has more information but is not accurate per the bead placement only.  I have loaded it here as there is more technical information in it to help you further.  Watch these videos as many times as needed to get the bind off completed.
Use this method or you can always run the yarn through all the beads, anchor the bottom bead and then pull the yarn back up to the work.  Alternately you could tie off the yarn at the bottom of the bead and knot it.  More ends though and not recommended.

How to Dip Dye
For the book What Would Madame Defarge Knit I did a fully photographed dip dye tutorial.  Go to this URL and scroll down for a step by step guide to dip dyeing.

For a list of all my videos subscribe to me on YouTube

Crochet Hook Comparison Here are a few of my crochet hooks so you can see the difference of the heads and shaft on them. In the video are Chiagoo, Addi Turbo and a generic that looks like a Bates but has letters on it. WARNING! Very silly and corny as I just go downhill when I'm in too much pain. Silly Songs with Fairy (instead of Larry the cucumber from Veggie Tales. Oh dear!)
     Another WARNING!  I impaled myself on the ChiaoGoo hook recently.  It was standing in my shot glass and was loaded with beads.  I was reaching for something on the floor and so had a good bit of momentum going... missed and hit the hook standing hook side up!  OUCH!  It went in about 1/4th an inch and let me tell you, the sight was enough to send people running out of the room.  I knew I just needed to calm down and not rip it out as the hook would damage everything inside me.  As it is I nicked a vein since the inside of my wrist swelled in like 5 seconds to a round quarter size.  This was about 4 inches from the site too.  After much pulling and screaming, I finally turned my hand in the way it needed to be in order to release the hook and out it came.  Talk about a complete freak out!  Be careful when using anything this fine in your work.  Knitting can be hazardous!  I healed in about a week so all's well that ends well.
     I came in there to tell you about a cool calculator, there are so many of them out there now as well as apps which will figure out the yards needed for a project.  I ran across this one which figures out how many sts you need to knit in order to decrease across a row.  I try to write out my patterns to include this number but some people will just say, decrease 3 sts evenly across the next row.  I can't tell you how very tempted I was in the beginning to say that in my designs.  Now I know better, you buy my patterns so you DON'T have to figure out the math.  ;-) She has a few other calculators on there and there are many more, so look next time you are tempted to toss your knitting across the room.  :-)

CHIAOGOO HOOKS     You can get your own ChiaoGoo here on the ChiaoGoo page or on the HiyaHiya page you can get a size 17/.05mm on that page.  Great for size 11/0 beads.

Care of Fine Yarn
     Here we hand paint yarns for the most part, meaning they aren't put into kettles.  Kettle dyeing will result in mostly solid yarn which we don't do, we paint like artists, this is why we dye, cause we love to paint.
     Your yarn will come to you only after is passes "white bowl" meaning we washed it in cold water and it didn't leak dye. The yarn here is subjected to conditions yarn should never have to undergo as we want to ship nothing but the best product out. We use vinegar to set it, there might still be a scent of this on your yarn and it might even smell like sheep or the mills spinning oils. We don't use anything on the yarn due to some folks having allergies and the last thing we want to do is subject anyone to a rash. Our water is from a well and has a PH of 7, your water will be different and even the water change can make the yarn bleed. Wool soaps may actually cause leaching, this is another reason why we don't use them.  If you don't want to go through setting I do not recommend you use them.  
     Thing is, the yarn must be continued to be cared for once it hits your home but this is all very much a chemical thing related to so many different variables. Like any "fine woolen" you need to use ONLY soaps made for wool, if you have to use soap, I don't.  I found that out the hard way when I first started to dye, I used to recommended using hair products cause "wool is hair", yeah right! So different in the care of it though. 


* Take very good care of your yarn like any fine woolen.
* Wash in cold water
* Lay flat to dry
* No soap unless you have to
* Keep out of the sun as that will bleach your yarn
* If using a light and dark color together in the same project to a swatch and wash test FIRST before making an entire project

* Wash hand paints in anything but cold/cool water, no warm or hot as it's been set in cold
* Wear your shawls out when you'll sweat, they will "crock" just like new denim
* Use anything but soap made for woolens, we actually prefer you only use water as even the best ones can cause bleeding which is why we don't use them.
* Use starch, perfume, or any fragrance around your yarn
* Store yarn in the same bag as something very fragrant, we've found this will make the yarn "crock"
* Wash in a washing machine, even if it's superwash
* Agitate yarn at all when wet
* Scrub fine hand knits, as for a spot on clothing

      What does "crock" mean?  Just like new denim (the real thing not the new elastic women's jeans) will rub off on your skin with the first wear and will come out in the wash with the first 5 +/- washing's... so will dye in wool. For some this may never happen as it's a skin PH thing which can show up on your hands while knitting. This doesn't mean that it wasn't set as nothing leaves us that isn't set.  If you have a bleeder it could be one of many things and you need to work to find out what is causing it.
     Items we have found that will cause yarn to bleed, stuff from the lists above.  While the yarn is set when it was here, we can't guarantee it will be set there, with all these chemical changes and differences between us we can't promise it wont try to release color once you get it as we don't know what is going to set it off. Certain colors are more prone to bleed such as red, turquoise, emerald and black.  If you find one that is releasing particles, stop rinsing immediately, do not rinse the color out as you want to keep it that same beautiful color.  It could be as simple as your water (well vs tap, hard vs soft, fluoride in your water, etc) and will have to be reset to your climate, temperature and water.  
     So what to do? Put the yarn into a nukable container (no microwave? Use a pot ) that you no longer want (can't use it again). Wring yarn (except non-super wash) Cover the damp but not wet, yarn in vinegar, soak it in that, lots of white vinegar.  Nuke 2 - 1/2 minutes per 100 grams, in pot, simmer, never boil, for 1 hour.  Allow to cool, *overnight* very important, do not skip this step.  Then the water should be clear the next day. If not repeat as needed but the first one should do the trick and the yarn will be set to your tap water/well/PH, whatever it is that set it off in the first place, it will be fine.  If you can figure out why it bleed to start with (keep in mind it was set when it left us) then attempt to correct the problem for the next time.
     BTW, if you have a yarn made with a plant fiber (bamboo, linen, cotton etc) a cup of salt in that vinegar wouldn't be amiss.  It helps cotton to allow the particles to attach to the yarn and not leech off.
     If you didn't come to find these instructions until after you've made a project with both light and dark yarn and one is leaching, get some Synthapol.  This is a detergent we use on the light colors of our gradient sets and it prevents back lashing of color.  Ever toss a pink shirt in with the whites and find you have a new load of pink laundry?  This is what I call back lashing, probably a better word for it but that's what we call it.  You can find this detergent at Dharma Trading and it will save your project if you didn't continue to rinse.
     Enjoy your knitting and care for our dear yarn as it came from out hearts to yours.


  1. I can not believe I did not stumble upon these videos sooner! They are very helpful, thank you!

  2. Dear Mam
    I was wondering if you could make a light what full coat saver for a small Maltese like the one I saw on your sight? But it must be light because I live in Tucson and it must breath.Pleas get in touch with me at mtokennel5@yahoo.com
    Barbara A Ruscher.